Watch guide
Updated: March 19, 2022
Hi there. You are probably here because you asked my advice on buying a watch. Thanks for asking <3, I probably talked your ears off, so you know how much I enjoy talking about this topic.
This is a very opinionated buyers guide, based on what I think is a sensible investment in the sub CHF 10k realm.
Just to be clear, these are suggestions that I like and would personally buy for myself.
Pro tip: Always check watch prices on https://chrono24.com. Some watches have extreme resale value and chrono24 has lots of different variants for most watches.
Types of Watches
To simplify the watch buying topic, I’d classify watches into divers, chronographs (racing), dress watches, field watches and pilots watches.
If all you want is a watch without having to think about it too much, your safest watch to get is one with a stainless steel case and strap with a white or black watch face. It is the easiest style of watch to pair with casual and formal wear.
Diver
My suggestion for a first watch, in stainless steel. There are great options at every price range. Seiko SKX007, Oris 65, Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster or Planet Ocean.
Chronograph (racing)
IMO the second most popular type of watch, as specially the Omega Speedmaster. Lots of other sports chronographs at cheaper price ranges borrow their looks from this watch.
Dress watch
Intended to wear with suites and shirts, there are some very nice options here, like the Reverso or Cartier Tank. The IWC Portugieser is a bit more flexible, and can easily be worn with casual wear as well.
Field watch
These are formerly military watches that are simple and robust. Mostly available on Nato straps. Mostly available in the lower price range and a good starter watch.
Pilot watch
As the name says, watches that were made for pilots and their navigation needs. Good start watch, with clear dials and overall utilitarian design. There are options available at every price point.
Vintage vs New
This is where I suggest to buy vintage online in Switzerland:
- Chrono24.com
- Ricardo.ch
If this is your first foray into watches and you can afford it, just buy the first one new. Once you’ve gotten your first watch, you’ll figure out for yourself how to proceed. In general, the knowledge required to have a good experience buying and owning used watches only comes with time, or having a stupid amount of money to waste on a dealer. You usually pay at minimum 30% overhead for used watches which are verified by a trusted dealer.
Simple example: A vintage Omega Seamaster from the 1950s in good condition can be had for CHF 800.- on Ricardo.ch. I have seen the same watch cost upwards of CHF 2000.- at a dealer.
> CHF 5000.-
Rolex Submariner
As of 2019, this is hands down the most iconic watch on the planet. The fabrication quality and finishing of Rolex watches are top notch.
Works well with casual and formal wear and has great resell value.
Rolex Explorer
If you like the Submariner but it’s too utilitarian for your taste, then the Explorer might fit the bill.
Omega Speedmaster
If there is a second well known watch, it has to be the Omega Speedmaster. The first watch on the moon, with a huge selection to choose from (if you want to go vintage).
Omega Seamaster
This is Omega’s answer to the Rolex Submariner. I honestly don’t really like it’s look, but a lot of people do appreciate it.
Omega Planet Ocean
A more serious diver from Omega, I really dig the look of this. It is pretty thick though, so definitely try this one before buying.
IWC Portugieser
This is my favorite wrist watch. Timeless design and great movement. I can stare at this thing every day and it still puts a smile on my face. It really never gets old.
They have a whole line, although I like this one with the white face the most.
IWC Flieger
If you are looking for an entry level luxury watch that is not too dressy, this is probably your best bet. They have a line of them. I don’t like the big crown versions though. They also look great on a stainless steel strap, if you want a watch that can be worn for most occasions.
Breitling Navitimer
The Navitimer is another iconic watch most people have seen before. It’s has some interesting complications and measurments on the dial, which help in navigation and calculation. You could say it’s the first calculator wrist watch. It was originally intended for scientists, but aviators convinced the designer of the watch to adapt it for trans atlantic flights. They recently came out with a re-edition of the ref. 806 model from 1959.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Besides the IWC Portugieser, this would be my other pick for best dress watch. I love its timeless design, how well it can be paired with different straps and of course the quirky reversible hinge.
~ CHF 2000.-
In this price range, I think Oris and Nomos are unbeatable. There are a lot of other players in the same price segment (Tissot, Certina, Rado, Tag Heuer), but I haven’t seen better value for money than with these two brands. I’d even go a step further and say that they both have unique offerings that are hard to find anywhere else.
Oris
Oris is a swiss watch brand that’s been around since 1904. They’ve had a bit of a revival in the last few years, as specialy with their re-issues of the Diver-65 (which also looks great on a stainless steel strap) and their new Propilot line.
Nomos (Glashuette)
Nomos is a sub brand of Glashuette, a german watch manufacturer. If you’d force me to buy a non-swiss watch, it would be either a Seiko or a Nomos.
Two reasons why I like them:
- Clean and unique design
- They spent a ton of money to develop in-house movements. You’ll probably not find a better in-house movement at this price point.
Fortis
This is a rather unknown swiss watch brand with an interesting history. They produced one of the first waterproof watches in 1943 and are the official timekeepers for the Russian Federal Space Agency ROSCOSMOS.
I totally dig their pilots line.
< CHF 500.-
Seiko
For this price range, Seiko is hard to beat. The only real downside of owning a Seiko in Switzerland is that they are not sold here any more. Getting them repaired here or trying them on in a shop will be difficult or impossible.
They have a good range of different types of watches with reliable movements. I personally own three and haven’t had any issues.
One thing to point out is that most of them come with a small battery which is part of the movement (can’t be replaced like a normal quartz watch battery). It is actually an accumulator which they use to store the energy generated by the automatic watch movement. If the Seiko you are buying claims to have more than a couple of days of power reserve, then it very likely has an accumulator like this built in. These things do need replacing after a few years (mine lasted between three and five years).
Seiko 5 Sports
This is the best introductory automatic watch you can buy. Seiko released a full line replacing the popular SKX007 in 2019. I only see one reason to stick with an original SKX007: It is rated as a divers watch until 100m. The new ones are not.
If I’m not using it for diving, I’d go with the new line because I like the new look.
Dress Watch
The SARB033 is pretty popular for a dress watch, even though it’s bracelet is not perfect. The new version of this watch is coming out now, with a better bracelet.
Citizen
IMHO for all intents and purposes, the main difference between Citizen and Seiko are in design choices. It’s not my cup of tea, but I have a few friends that adore these watches.
One cool thing they have that Seiko doesn’t is their Eco-Drive movement. Similar maintenance as Seiko and can recharge via solar power.
Their more expensive watches tend to lean towards being gimmicky, but that’s probably a matter of taste as well.
If I had to, I’d chose one from their Eco-Drive line.
Hamilton
Nothing much to add here other than Hamilton make some of the nicest reasonably priced field watches.
Apple Watch
The series 5 Apple Watch in stainless steel is a perfectly fine watch. The haters can go join the circus for all I care. It looks good, can be combined with rubber, cloth, leather and stainless steel bracelets. It also comes with some pretty nice watch faces.
Besides being a watch, if you pair it with a couple of AirPods, it can basically replace your cellphone.
I’m very happy with mine.
